Pussy willow and flowering sprig of beads
Congratulations on Palm Sunday! I wish EVERYONE a spring mood!
And I want to share my MK with YOU. Tell me how I made Verba and a flowering bead twig.
Beaded pussy willow
For manufacturing, we will need:
Let’s get to work.
1. String 23 white beads onto the wire, twist into a loop.
2. On one end we put on 9 beads and go through the middle bead of the loop
3. And on the same wire we collect 9 more beads and, having connected the two wires, we scroll three turns.
4. Draw 9 beads on the other end of the wire and go through the middle bead of the loop.
5. And on the same wire we collect 9 more beads and, having connected the two wires, we scroll three turns.
6. Then roll a small piece of cotton wool and stick it in the middle of the kidney.
We twist the wire tightly and cut off the ends.
Then we take a willow branch and attach the buds to the branch with a glue gun.
And now our branches are ready!
For manufacturing, we will need:
branch (from any tree)
white beads (not large)
Put 5 pink beads on the wire, connect the wire, scroll it 3 turns.
Then, on one end, we collect so many pink beads so that they are around the first loop, connect the wires, scroll three turns.
At one end, we collect so many pink beads so that they are around the second loop, connect the wires, and scroll them three turns.
Put 10 white beads on a wire 15 cm long and pass one of the ends through the first bead.
We connect a pink leaf and a white one in this way.
For one flower there are 5 such petals.
The middle is done like this: put on a bead and scroll the wire. They need to be made 3 pieces. For one flower.
We collect the flower
We collect 15 beads pink beads and pass one of the ends through the first bead. We make such 3 pieces. And we connect, it turns out a bud.
We glue the flowers on the branch and the flowering branch is ready.
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Weaving an apple tree from beads
How beautiful trees bloom in spring: apple trees, cherries, apricots. They, as if dressed in a bride’s attire, attract attention and cause joy in the soul of every person.
The only pity is that their flowering lasts very little. After a while, the flowers fall off and a delicious fruit is formed in their place. And that’s great! Only such beauty will not be seen anywhere in a year. And so I want to admire this natural splendor more than once throughout the year.
Of course, we are not magicians and we cannot influence nature. But we are quite capable of making a small tree out of beads with our own hands.
To make an apple tree in color from beads, we need:
-beads in two shades of green, as well as pink and white.
-wire for beads
-floral ribbon brown
-plaster or putty mixture
We will use the weaving technique that I often use when making beaded trees. Namely, looped. It looks beautiful in the finished result, is easy to execute, so even a novice craftswoman can master it.
We will weave an apple tree in spring bloom.
For its production, I took 4 types of beads.
Cut a piece of wire about 50 cm long and put 7 beads on it.
Place them in the middle of the wire and twist the first loop.
Cast on 7 beads on both ends of the wire and twist the loops about three turns.
One branch should have 9 loops.
The branch is ready. In total we make 9 branches of 9 stitches for the top, 1 branch of white beads, 4 branches of green beads and 4 of white and pink beads.
To make a sprig of white and pink beads, you need to put 1 pink bead, 5 white and 1 pink beads on the wire and twist the loop. In the same way, we form loops for the entire branch.
You can make as many branches as you like. The more branches, the more magnificent the tree will turn out. If you plan to make it large, then leave the wire longer at the ends of the branches, as it will serve as the trunk of the tree.
I made 10 green branches of 11 loops each, 4 9 loops, 10 branches of 11 white loops, 20 branches of 11 loops of white and pink beads, 6 branches of 13 loops of white and pink beads for the lowest tier of the apple tree.
When all the branches are ready, you can start assembling them.
First we take the branches that we made for the top of the tree and twist them together in three pieces.
We do the same with the rest of the branches.
Now each resulting twig needs to be wrapped with a brown floral ribbon.
Next, you need to connect all the branches one by one, wrapping them with floral tape during assembly.
It can be assembled into one solid tree with one trunk, or it can be branched into two connected ones.
We collect the branches so that with fewer loops at the top, and with a larger one at the bottom of the tree. If the branches are heavy and the trunk is thin, then you need to wind the branches on a thick wire that will hold the whole tree.
Then we take a flower pot of a suitable size, fill it up to half with pieces of polystyrene and insert a tree.
Then we dilute the plaster mixture separately and pour it into a pot.
Separately, you can make bushes of flowers and plant them near the apple tree. You can decorate the gypsum by painting it with black acrylic paint or filling it with beads of the same colors as the tree.
If you do not like that the trunk is too thin, then mix separately diluted gypsum and 1: 1 PVA glue in a container, and, wrapping the branches with foil, cover the entire trunk with this mixture, thickening it and giving the desired shape. Then give it a realistic look with paint and varnish.
Our apple tree made of beads is ready and will remind you of spring throughout the year, delighting and giving the memory of beautiful warm spring days.
How to create a Blooming apple tree bracelet: working with Swarovski crystals
Difficulty: below average
Working time: 4 hours
Materials: japanese beads, beads, delica beads, crystals, swarovski crystals, swarovski crystals, swarovski crystals, leather, genuine leather, pearls, swarovski pearls, base for a bracelet, gimp, chenille, gimp for embroidery, sequins, sequins italy, leather italy, leather italian, swarovski bicones (swarovski
According to the author. I present to your attention a master class on creating a bracelet made of genuine leather, Swarovski crystals and Japanese beads.
This is my first master class, I wanted to make it as detailed as possible and I’m a little worried that I overdid it with the details, but it’s better to have more details than it would be incomprehensible 🙂 In general, I hope you enjoy 🙂
1. Swarovski Сaushion Square 12 mm, Powder Rose, 1 pc.
2. Swarovski Pear Rhinestone (drop) 14×10 mm framed, Powder Rose color 4 pcs.
3. Swarovski Fancy Stone (oval) 6×4 mm in the frame, color Powder Green 8 pcs.
4. Swarovski pearls 3 mm, Pastel Rose color 12 pcs.
5. Swarovski pearls 3 mm, Pearlescent White 15 pcs.
6. Swarovski pearls 4 mm, color Pastel Green 4 pcs.
7. Swarovski bicones 3 mm, color Rose Water Opal 7 pcs.
8. Swarovski bicone beads 3 mm, color Chrysolite Opal 9 pcs.
9. Beads with silver coating Delica DB-551 11/0 250 pcs.
10. Beads mint glossy Delica DB-1536 11/0 56 pcs.
11. Seed beads pink glossy Delica DB-234 11/0 66 pcs.
12. Italian flat sequins 3 mm, Rosa Antico color 58 pcs.
13. Italian flat sequins 3 mm, Ivory color 14 pcs.
14. French chenille, white, about 16 cm.
15. Rigid silver gimp, 1 mm, approximately 22 cm.
16. Rigid base for a bracelet 1.5 cm wide and 16 cm long (any length can be).
17. Glue (I have B-7000, Moment Crystal works well).
18. Beaded needles.
19. Monofilament (or any other thread that is comfortable to work with).
20. Genuine leather, color pink, two pieces no more than 3 cm wide, the length is matched to the length of the bracelet.
21. Ruler, scissors, pencil, round nose pliers.
First, we outline the boundaries of the embroidery on the leather for the size of the bracelet, mark the center.
Glue the 12mm caushion square crystal in the center to make it easier to sew on.
Sew the crystal to the base, go through all the holes twice so that the crystal is held tight. I embroider with monofilament in two folds, I have tried different threads before, but some are pushed, some could not withstand the tension during weaving, I started using monofilament, it is not visible in embroidery, there is no need to match the colors to the materials, and I am confident in the strength of the products.
We bring the needle to the front side as close to the crystal as possible, collect two mint-colored beads and go through the base, retreating the distance that the beads will take. Next, pass the needle between two beads and pass the thread through the second bead.
We collect two more beads, do the same, and embroider a row around the crystal.
A row around the crystal should be 28 beads, remove the needle from any bead, collect one mint bead, white sequin, mint bicone, white sequin and mint bead and thread the needle, stepping over three beads.
We weave the entire row in this way, pull the thread harder during weaving so that the braid is strong and tightly surrounds the crystal. When we make the last loop, the needle should be in our first bead from which we removed the needle.
We pass the needle through the mint bead, sequin and bicone. We collect one mint bead, one pink sequin, one pink bead, one pink sequin, one mint bead and pass the needle through the adjacent bicone.
We weave such loops through all the bicones.
From the last bicone we found ourselves in, we pass the needle through one mint bead, one pink sequin and one pink bead. Cast on one pink bead, one pink sequin, one white pearl, one pink sequin and one pink bead. We pass into the adjacent pink bead of the previous row.
Pass the needle through the pink bead, pink sequin and pearl. Cast on one pink sequin, one pink bicone and one pink sequin. We pass through the neighboring pearl. We weave the whole row like this.
We put the needle in a pink bicone, we collect one pink, one silver and one pink beads. We pass into the adjacent bicone, we also weave the entire row.
Finishing our braiding: go through the pink and silver beads, pick up one pink bead and go through the adjacent silver bead. So we weave the whole row, tighten it harder, once again go through the last row once or twice so that it does not come apart. We get such a braided crystal 🙂
We go down the braid and bring the needle to the wrong side.
Let’s start embroidery. We pass the needle to the front side at a distance of 2 mm from the central element. The center line, which we drew at the beginning, will help us to make the stitch evenly. Sew on one mint pearl. When embroidering, I pass the needle into each bead twice so that it does not wobble and holds on tightly. When working with leather, if you sew on beads and crystals with a double stitch, it is better to go through the same holes from the needle, since the leather is a delicate material, and all the holes from the needles are visible on it. The work will look neater if there are no erroneous or unnecessary punctures visible anywhere.
Now you need to decorate the pearl with chenille. To do this, we withdraw the needle next to the pearl on the side and pass the needle back into the same hole, do not tighten the thread, we get a loop into which we thread the tip of the chenille.
Now we can tighten the loop. Next, we also sew the chenille in the "pinned" way around the pearl.
To add volume, we sew the chenille in the second layer. After the last stitch, cut off the chenille. Sew the ponytail between the pearl and the braided crystal.
We glue and sew on the pink drop so that its "nose" is as close to the chenille as possible, there should be no space between them. Sew mint ovals on the sides of the drop, also as close to the chenille as possible. You don’t need to overdo it either, we just move the crystals closer to the chenille, and do not glue it on top of it.
Now we will decorate the chenille with beads and sequins. We bring the needle out on the right through the chenille from the side of the braided crystal, collect it with a pink bead, one pink sequin, one pink bead, one pink sequin and one pink bead. We pass the needle from the other side closer to the drop. We also do it on the left.
Now we sew on the gimp. I stretch it a little by pulling on the two ends to make it easier to sew on. We measure 2.7 cm, cut off, trim the ends so that the gimp does not cling to clothes when wearing the bracelet.
With two thumbs, we make smooth bends on a piece of gimp, bend the upper part into an unfinished ring with round-nose pliers with neat movements so that there are no creases.
We sew on our piece of gimp in the same way as chenille. We make a loop at the base of the braided crystal, thread the tip of the gimp and tighten the loop. We bring the needle out near the mint crystal (for a reference point, the needle should come out in the center of the frame). We attach the gimp, returning to the same hole from the needle. Next, we withdraw the needle as close as possible to the pink drop (between the two holes for sewing on the frame) and sew the gimp.
We fix the rounded tip of the gimp. To keep the gimp tight, we fix the upper part of the ring and the side bend.
We sew a pink pearl into the rounded tip of the gimp.
We do the same on the other side.
We decorate the end of the embroidery, go out near a pink drop, collect a pink pearl, a mint bicone and a pink pearl, sew on each bead a second time for strength.
We draw out the needle between the pink drop and the rounded tip of the gimp, pick up one white pearl, sew it on, remove the needle at the base of the pearl, go into it, pick up one silver bead and return through the pearl back. We pass the needle to the wrong side. Do the same on the other side of the crystal.
Repeat the entire pattern on the other side of the braided crystal.
So we finished embroidering the bracelet 🙂
We glue the base for the bracelet, glue the embroidery. Trim off excess skin, leaving 2 mm. We also glue and cut the seamy side.
Now we need to make the edge beautiful 🙂 Pass the needle between two layers of skin towards the front side (at the same time we hide the knot between the layers). We collect two silver beads, pierce both layers of leather from the seamy side to the front side, and go through the second bead.
We collect one more bead, pierce both layers of the skin from the back to the front side and go through this bead. So we continue to sew the edge.
I want to share my experience in replacing the thread, if it ended in the process of sheathing and finishing the sheathing, suddenly it will be useful to someone 🙂
If the thread runs out in the process of sewing the edge, then we collect, as usual, one bead, exit with the needle to the front side and do not complete the stitch, pass the needle into the same hole through the front layer of the skin and pass into the adjacent bead. We fasten the thread, going up and down into the adjacent beads, cut off the extra piece of thread.
We take a new thread, pass the needle through the hole on the front side of the bracelet and pass into the bead that we have not finished sewing. The row looks continuous.
When we complete the sewing row, and the last and the first beads have come together, we pass the needle from the last bead directly into the very first one from top to bottom and pierce both layers of leather from the front side to the wrong side (and not as usual, vice versa) and go from bottom to top into the first bead.
The row also appears to be continuous. We fix the thread going up and down into the next beads.